The Keys To Paradise
Oh the city, the city. How impressive your grandeur and how readily I fled your embrace. One last gap and I am through, the ocean once again lies before me. Beware of hidden reefs and obstacles for you have now entered the Hawks Channel. And what a delight to the eyes it is to behold.
Passing the Biscayne Key Lighthouse
Running down the full length of the Keys, Hawks Channel lies between the Keys themselves and one of the only barrier reefs in North America. Emerald waters lap against the hull as the wind pushes us south and then west. From an abundance of people to not a soul in sight, we cruise into paradise.
It is a quiet week, as the first half of the channel forces us to anchor out in the open ocean. Our first stop is in Biscayne National Park. The sea is calm as we make our way and it is before the sun falls that we move close to the coast and drop anchor. It is the first silent night in some time. No city lights, no buzz of cars or boats motoring by. Only the soft breeze blowing through the rigging with the smell of fajitas wafting up from the galley.
Biscayne National Park
Come the morning we once again weigh anchor and proceed further south. Though the water shimmers with its magic not much is seen. No dolphins to be spotted or turtles to pass us by. Though we would become plagued with a never ending labyrinth of crab and lobster traps that clogged the channel to the very end.
Another night is spent offshore before we arrive to our first major Key, Marathon. We tuck ourselves into a lovely marina before proceeding into town. I have been told this is a quaint little area to catch your breath and mend your sails. But, I was to discover that inside the islands walls lay a graveyard of boats. Hundreds, if not a thousand sailboats sat floating, or sunk, as far as one could see.
Although there was a number of nice enough boats, the amount of derelict vessels could not be ignored. And though the locals were kind enough, I could not help but feel encumbered by the drudgery and trash that seemed to surround the area. Perhaps if you had little sense of urgency and wanted to float life away it could be a home for you. I felt I couldn’t move on fast enough less I be roped in and pulled under.
It was at this time we made our way to our first reef system of the trip. A mere 4 miles from Marathon, we motored over across the still ocean until coming to Sombrero Reef. A crowded little area, as many others had ridden over to enjoy swimming on such a picturesque day.
After donning my mask and fins I wasted no time before diving down into the drink. I promise you, if I were to have gills you would not see me rise to the surface again! So in love am I with the life that flows through the ocean.
Soon I was caught amongst a school of shining blue fish, swimming below and above. Rainbow colored parrot fish nibbled at coral, spotted puffer fish hid beneath rock shelves, and petite angel fish would dart in and out of the sporadic sea growth. Farther I would go down, diving between small canyons and holding my breath until my lungs felt to burst.
I swam until my arms felt like lead weights before heading back to the mothership. Out on the open ocean we bobbed, the sun setting like it never has before. It is moments like these that you realize the challenges you faced thus far were well worth enduring. Nothing great is ever free, and how could you cherish it if it was?
Five miles off shore at Sombrero Reef
One last leg lies ahead for this chapter. After traveling 600 nautical miles Key West sits a meager 60 miles away. Already my mind runs with questions of, “what comes next…?” Up to this point the journey has been a simple matter of moving from point A to B. And very soon I will be at the fated "Point B!"
If it has not been said before Key West was never my intended destination. In fact, if you had asked me at any point in my life what I thought of the place I would have told you I had no thoughts on it at all. Originally my destination was to the distant Caribbean Island of St. Thomas, yet now I am well over a thousand miles away.
You'll have to forgive me if this has become a new source of anxiety. Of course who could complain about moving to Key West? What fool would ever do so! To that I would respond that it is not exactly the location that perturbs me but the feeling of being far off the path I desired to go.
Yet here I am! Clear water, endless bars, and islands a plenty to explore. It is time to reassess, rewind, and discover the next path. Not to mention... I have been unemployed for nearly two months! As much as I love ramen, I'd love to refill my coffers even more. As always there is more to do and plenty to see.
My welcome to Key West